Natural fabrics have a high-level quality and are delivered from the best textile factories. It is pledge to create a unique costume, one of the kind. Our company offer more than 15 000 names of materials and accessories, which allows to choose fabrics that will satisfy the most demanding customers’ taste. Products of the companies is a result of innovate technology of global textile industry.
You will never meet fabrics, which we use for individual sewing, even in the most elite store products. Because these fabrics were produced especially for bespoke Atelier worldwide.
Hand-sewn by horsehair side pads in the chest area of a male jacket (full canvas) is very important and responsible operation of technology for individual tailoring of men’s suits Bespoke Tailoring. Why?
Horsehair is a natural material; therefore, costume will «breathe». Costumes with natural materials have a long term of usage. Thus, your jacket not swell up like «glue relatives».
Horsehair fabrics have elastic property, therefore costumes save their beautiful «three-dimensional» shape.
Creating a unique shape of the upper part of the jacket, in which the product has a slightly convex shape in the chest area, and the lapel that lies very softly, but at the same time slightly stays without being flattened flat, as in case with factory suits. There are from 3 to 5 horsehair interlayer elements used in man’s costume depended on fabric type, product style and customer wish.
One of the main features of technology Bespoke Tailoring is creating individual patterns. Tailor takes more than 20 measurements from a client and then builds individual patterns, considering even the smallest features of the customer’s figure. Thus, we achieve ideal fitting of the product. These patterns are carefully archived. Client will save a lot of time if directs to us next time, so extra fittings will be unnecessary.
Manufacture of patterns set is the most difficult and responsible stage of creation a costume. Quality of patterns define not only fit but design and quality of cloth. Your individual results of fitting we keep in our database. You will save a lot of time if you direct to us next time. In fact, you will need to choose the fabric and decide on the style, and then, when ready, try on the product once before the final completion.
Lining with silk thread
Final stage is lining of a suit with silk thread around the edges of the collar, lapel and bead, pockets, leaflet and cuffs and also on the inside of clothe at the junction of the fit and lining of the jacket and the upper part of the trousers. It is gorgeous and it will standed out of the crowd the owner of the bespoke’s costume.
This hand work operation is used not only for decorate element and exclusivity attribute of your costume, but it is also a guarantee that product will keep its shape better and will serve you much longer than store analog.
All inner and outer jacket and trousers pockets and belt loop reinforced by hand made bartacks with each edge. It is done for reliability and durability of product service.
Handmade buttonhole is a very important stage at making costume. These buttonholes are the mark of noble origin costume, which answers all canon of tailor’s craft.
Vent which allows to roll up your sleeves when unfasten all buttons.
Loop on the back of lapel of jacket is used for buttonhole fixing.
There are a tradition to leave one or two buttons open so you can show all the beauty of a handmade buttonhole, that allows to roll up your sleeves when unfasten all buttons
All buttons are sewn by hand by silk thread in a special way:
- Shank buttons facilitate unbuttoning;
- Coral drawing is formed by four-piercing buttons from outer side;
- Kissing buttons. They are an overlapping sewn buttons on the vent;
- We use noble natural materials for buttons: horn, bone, pearl, shell.
Individual sewing of a men’s suit is not only about manual labor and an ideal fit according to the figure. First of all, it is an individual product design. Each man has specific and unique form of the structure of the shoulder body. In addition, men have unique structure of the spine and chest as well as level of inclination and slope of the shoulders. Task of the bespoke tailoring jacket is level these diffrences and give the image a harmonious look.
The constitution of the human body does not have a straight lines and angles. Accordingly, the suit should not have a flat angular shape like the most of store products. Therefore, tailors form SHISHKIN bespoke atelier pay especial attention to ironing at all stages sewing. Special wooden pads and hard work with iron give costume bulging form. At least 30% of all operations is ironing.
All pads are made to order according to our original drawings, each one is special for individual operation. For sewing costume by bespoke tailoring technology, tailors use from 8 to 12 different types of wooden pads: oak, beech and ash – it depends on number of types and operations difficulty.
Cutting fabrics, preparing parts for the product, finishing assembly and decorative finishing are done by hand. The special tension of the thread obtained when using manual labor allows the product to naturally repeat plasticity of the human body and become the «second skin». Thus, the appearance of term «living costume» takes place in the professional environment.
The Bespoke suit is unique in that every day it sits better and better according to the customer’s figure, adapting to all the anatomical nuances. In Bespoke tailoring technology, hand work occupies more than 70% of all operations. At least 150 hours of manual work take to create one costume.